When choosing a metal for your gemstone or diamond jewelry, several factors come into play, including durability, appearance, and cost. The key characteristics that differentiate various metals are their luster (shine), weight, and color.

At Brilliantany, we craft our jewelry using premium gold and platinum, renowned for their durability and aesthetic appeal. Our commitment to sustainability means we source these metals from eco-friendly providers. Gold and platinum are not only among the most durable and visually appealing options, but they are also classified as precious metals due to their rarity and higher cost compared to more commonly used metals.

We often take for granted our ability to buy jewelry whenever we please and to select the metal for our rings. The metals used in ring manufacturing require considerable effort and involve various alloys and metals.

Alloys are combinations of metals with other elements to enhance their strength and resistance to corrosion. This is necessary because pure metals often lack the necessary properties for certain tasks. For instance, iron is good for construction, but steel (an alloy of iron, carbon, and other materials) is tougher, stronger, and more resistant to rust. Aluminum is lightweight but too soft in its pure form.

In jewelry, gold is commonly mixed with metals like copper, silver, nickel, zinc, and others to form alloys. These alloys not only strengthen gold but also modify its properties. Some gold rings can cause dark stains or allergic reactions like rashes and blisters. Gold's versatility makes it highly popular, able to be crafted into various shapes. Gold of 18k purity or higher doesn't tarnish or cause irritation.

White gold engagement rings, made from gold blended with lighter metals and plated with rhodium, are a preferred choice over platinum due to their appearance and cost. White gold is considered as bright as platinum and is the second whitest precious metal after silver.

18k Yellow Gold: Comprising 75% gold alloyed with silver, zinc, cobalt, and copper, 18k yellow gold offers a rich appearance and feel for engagement rings. Unlike plated gold, it is malleable and rarely causes skin irritation. However, it is less scratch-resistant compared to lower purity alloys and can wear down over time despite heavy use.

White Gold: Also 75% gold, white gold includes alloys like copper, palladium, zinc, and nickel to achieve its whitish appearance. Often used as a substitute for platinum engagement rings when rhodium plated, white gold exhibits greater resistance to bending and scratching than 18k yellow gold. It is dense, solid, and workable, but requires rhodium plating for a high luster. Allergic reactions may occur with nickel-sensitive wearers, and it can wear down gradually.

18k Palladium White Gold: Similar to white gold but with 25% palladium, this alloy resembles platinum when rhodium plated. It is solid, dense, and workable with minimal risk of skin irritation. However, like other rhodium-plated metals, it can wear down over time and is more expensive than 18k nickel alloys.

14k Yellow or White Gold: The most popular choice, 14k gold is 58% pure gold mixed with metals like silver, nickel, copper, and zinc. Stamped "14k" for identification, it requires no plating and offers strong resistance to bending and scratching. It is generally cost-effective compared to platinum alloys or 18k gold but is lighter and less resistant than its 18k counterpart. While it is less likely to cause skin irritation, it is harder to work with.

In the realm of precious metals, there's a clear distinction between hardness and strength. Hardness, indicated by HV, refers to a metal's resistance to scratches when subjected to a pointed object with pressure and penetration. It's measured on the Vickers Hardness scale. Durability, measured in pounds per square inch (PSI), assesses a metal's tensile strength and ability to withstand pressure that could potentially cause it to break.

Platinum is typically marked with "PLAT" or "950pt" to indicate its purity. A ring containing 90% platinum is marked as "900pt," while those containing between 50% and 90% platinum are simply marked "PLAT" without a purity indicator. Alloys with less than 50% platinum are not marked according to FTC rules.

The highest melting temperature for platinum is reached with alloys like "950 parts platinum with 50 parts ruthenium," making it difficult to cast. This alloy results in a darker gray color compared to platinum mixed with iridium.

Jewelers recommend using PT950/ru for diamond jewelry due to its hardness, which withstands the pressure needed for setting diamonds. It's extremely durable and resistant to wear over time.

PT900 and PT950/Ir alloys are also hard and medium-hard, respectively. Both are white and malleable, making them ideal for handmade jewelry. Although softer metals require longer polishing, they offer better scratch and bend resistance than harder alloys. They also secure stones well during impacts and resist wear effectively.

Platinum mixed with 50 parts cobalt (PT950/Co) is somewhat hard and suitable for fine and filigree jewelry. Craftsmanship is crucial in working with platinum alloys, and each alloy has its own strengths without one being universally better than another.