A diamond's shape is its most distinguishing and easily identifiable feature. Diamonds are cut in a variety of shapes that maximize their brilliance and give character to the stone. Different shapes can represent different personalities and events. The round brilliant cut is the most popular, followed by the Princess cut. At With Clarity, we offer the 9 most popular diamond shapes, all certified by GIA. Learn more about each shape below.
TABLE OF CONTENTS |
| About Diamond Shapes |
| Shapes |
| Lab Grown Diamond Shapes |
About Diamond Shapes
Diamonds are cut in a variety of shapes, but how does a diamond cutter decide what shape to create? The primary responsibility of a diamond cutter is to preserve and maximize carat weight. Since rough diamonds come in unpredictable shapes and sizes, the cutter will create whichever shape maximizes carat weight and value.
Interestingly, round cut diamonds result in the most wastage of rough diamond carat. Other fancy shapes are deeper and tend to have longer, less uniform shaping, allowing them to capture more of the rough diamond.
While diamonds can be cut into any shape, there are 10 popular diamond shapes: Round, Princess, Cushion, Oval, Emerald, Pear, Marquise, Asscher, Radiant, and Heart. Exotic shapes include Baguettes, Bullets, Half Moons, Trillion, Old Mine, Rose, and even Horse head. While new diamond shapes are being invented, there are a classic few that have stood the test of time, enduring for their beauty and ability to showcase the sparkle of the diamond.
Diamond shape popularity has always been significant as jewelers have sought to maximize the shine of each ring. Initially, the goal was to create shinier rings to charge higher prices. However, this pursuit of brilliance turned into a widely embraced concept. Today, diamond shapes are incredibly popular, and most people consider the shape of a diamond to be one of the most important factors of any ring.
This popularity is influenced by factors such as price, the lifespan of the diamond, and the ring's appearance. Different diamond shapes vary in their susceptibility to damage, making it crucial for buyers to research which shape best suits their lifestyle. Additionally, diamond shapes carry different essences—some are more modern, while others have a classic feel. These vibes play a significant role in the overall impression of the ring.
When choosing a shape for an engagement ring, select one that resonates with your personality and preferences, as you will be wearing it for a long time. A classic and versatile shape will blend seamlessly with other jewelry and clothing. Avoid making a decision solely based on current trends.
Shapes
Round: STYLE: classic, elegant, sparkling
The most popular and researched diamond shape is the round brilliant cut. When cut well, this shape maximizes the reflection of light, enhancing the diamond's brilliance and brightness. The round brilliant cut diamond features 58 facets, which are precisely calibrated among its crown (top), girdle (widest part), and pavilion (base) to achieve maximum fire and brilliance. However, shaping a rough stone into a round diamond results in more material loss, making the cost per retained carat higher. Despite this, over 75% of the world's diamonds are round brilliants, highlighting their enduring popularity.
Princess: STYLE: trendy, beautiful, angelic
The second most popular diamond shape is the princess cut, preferred in a square shape but also available in a rectangular form. Slightly rectangular princess cuts tend to be lower in cost. This cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth to maximize brilliance, with depth percentages commonly ranging from 70% to 78%. The ideal square ratio for a princess cut is between 1.00 and 1.05.
A princess cut should always be set with four prongs to protect its corners from chips. It is ideal for long fingers and wedding bands. This cut features 57 or 58 facets and is known as a square modified brilliant cut or a rectangular modified brilliant cut when the ratio exceeds 1.10.
Cushion: STYLE: romantic, graceful, sophisticated
Cushion cuts blend the energy of a round brilliant with the symmetry of a radiant cut. Its romantic appeal is reflected in its larger 58 facets and rounded, squared corners. Also known as the "pillow cut," the cushion cut's larger faceting enhances the diamond's brilliance. However, larger facets can reveal clarity inclusions, so it is essential to evaluate the location of inclusions by examining the certificate's diamond plot.
Cushion cuts are popular in both square and rectangular shapes. While square cuts are generally rarer, they appear more symmetrical in an engagement ring. Cushion cut diamonds are renowned for their great fire, reflecting light in a rainbow of colors.
Emerald: STYLE: modern, bold, glamorous
Emerald cuts represent unification, as they are well-proportioned and bring out the pure brilliance of a diamond. Also known as the "step cut" due to its layered faceting, the emerald cut possesses a unique appeal with its symmetrical sparkle. The faceting is minimal and simple, which tends to show inclusions. This cut features 58 facets, with roughly 25 on the crown, 25 on the pavilion, and 8 on the girdle, consisting of three rows of bottom steps and three rows of top steps.
An open setting can reveal the diamond's color, so closed or bezel-type settings are recommended for diamonds with lower color grades.
Radiant: STYLE: fiery, diva, provocative
A beautifully symmetrical, non-traditional cut, the radiant cut combines the brilliance of a round diamond with the purity of an emerald cut. Its trimmed corners give it versatility for all kinds of jewelry, especially engagement rings. The faceting of a radiant cut provides a fiery look compared to a princess cut while maintaining soft, cut corners. The radiant cut fuses the best aspects of other popular diamond shapes.
The rectangular radiant cut is an excellent option for buyers who prefer the emerald cut shape but desire the brilliance of a round diamond. A ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 will create a square shape, while a ratio of 1.30 to 1.50 will produce a rectangular shape.
Asscher: STYLE: balanced, vintage, creative
The asscher cut, a step cut diamond like the emerald cut, is a blend of the princess and emerald cuts with X-shaped facets extending from its corners to its center culet. The brilliance of its faceting can mask certain inclusions and lower color grades. Asscher cut diamonds offer a clean balance and visual appeal but can also reflect clarity inclusions and color. Therefore, higher grades in both categories are generally recommended.
The step cut emphasizes the clarity of the diamond, making it ideal for showcasing higher clarity diamonds. The asscher cut is a popular shape developed during the Art Deco period. The suggested cut ratio for square proportions is 1.00 to 1.05.
Marquise: STYLE: dramatic, moving, joyful
The marquise cut is a classic and historic diamond shape that resembles the delight of a smile. It is a variant of round and pear-shaped diamonds and, like the oval cut, is a perfect complement to long, slender fingers. The marquise cut's elongated body can make it appear larger than its actual carat weight, creating an excellent impression of long, slender fingers. The suggested cut ratio for the ideal shape is between 1.75 to 2.25.
Pear: STYLE: contemporary, unique, gentle
The pear shape diamond is artistic, offering many stylish variations. With 58 facets, light dances through the diamond similar to a round brilliant, maximizing its sparkle. Its teardrop appearance leaves a lasting impression, and the diamond's body allows the wearer the flexibility to wear it pointing up or down.
The pear shape's faceting often masks inclusions, especially those near the point, which tend to be less visible. Pear shapes can vary in width and elongation, with longer shapes providing a slimming effect on fingers. The suggested cut ratio for the ideal shape is between 1.5 to 1.7.
Most flaws such as naturals and extra facets are typically located at the point of the diamond. It's advisable to set the diamond with a prong covering the point to prevent any chipping.
Oval: STYLE: trendy, elegant, delicate
Created in the mid-1900s, the oval cut is essentially an elongated version of the round brilliant cut diamond. Oval diamonds possess the brilliance of round diamonds but stand out due to their unique shape. This cut is fashionable because, despite needing to consider a few factors when shopping, oval diamonds can appear larger than round diamonds of the same carat weight. They are also cherished for their ability to flatter the hand, making fingers look longer and thinner.
The oval diamond's elongating effect adds elegance to any ring featuring this style of stone. However, its delicate nature, characterized by rounded edges, contrasts with the bold points of a marquise cut. When selecting an oval diamond, it's crucial to consider diamond color. The rounded ends of an oval cut tend to reveal more color than a round diamond would, so it's advisable to choose a diamond with a slightly higher color grade to ensure the ends appear colorless.
Lab Grown Diamond Shapes
Just like natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds come in a variety of shapes. Lab-grown diamonds possess identical optical, chemical, and physical characteristics to mined diamonds, being 100% real diamonds with the only difference being their origin. These diamonds are grown inside a laboratory under controlled conditions, using extreme pressure and heat within machines rather than forming naturally within the Earth's layers.
Certified by organizations like IGI, lab-grown diamonds are assessed based on the same criteria as natural diamonds. Even in lab-grown diamonds, flaws or inclusions exist that need to be considered when selecting the best shape for each stone. Diamond shapes are chosen strategically to hide these flaws, maximize the diamond's fire and brilliance, and optimize the value extracted from the rough stone.
Among lab-grown diamond shapes, the round brilliant cut is the most popular due to its exceptional fire. The oval shape is also trendy and creates an illusion of larger size. Economical choices include marquise, pear, or cushion cuts, which maximize the use of the original stone. Shapes like Asscher or emerald cuts are valued for their elegance and efficiency in utilizing the rough material.
The flexibility in shaping lab-grown diamonds is enhanced by the controlled growth process of the rough diamonds. When choosing a lab-grown diamond shape, consider your personal preferences, taste, and budget to find the ideal option for you.